Hi All,
My recently purchased Century has not run for over eleven years.
First I want to turn it by hand and make sure nothing is stuck before I try it with the starter.
Can some one please tell me what size of socket I will need to turn the engine by the crank pulley nut ?
Crank pulley nut size ??
Re: Crank pulley nut size ??
Honestly, I can't remember the crank pulley bolt size. I THINK it is 15/16" but this might be the size on my Ford truck. Hopefully someone here who is currently restoring their car will answer this.
1958 Buick Limited Riviera Coupe Model 755
Other cars:
1953 Chevrolet 3100 Pickup
1957 Pontiac Transcontinental Safari
1968 Ford Galaxie 500 HT
1977 Lincoln Continental Convertible
Other cars:
1953 Chevrolet 3100 Pickup
1957 Pontiac Transcontinental Safari
1968 Ford Galaxie 500 HT
1977 Lincoln Continental Convertible
Re: Crank pulley nut size ??
hey guys.
i just went out to my garage to find out exactly what size the crank pulley bolt really is. my 1" socket seems like a perfect fit. unfortunately, i do not have a 15/16" socket, so i couldnt check that size, but the 1" was fairly snug on the bolt--i.e., a 15/16" might be a little too small.
if anyone can correct me, please enlighten the group.
i just went out to my garage to find out exactly what size the crank pulley bolt really is. my 1" socket seems like a perfect fit. unfortunately, i do not have a 15/16" socket, so i couldnt check that size, but the 1" was fairly snug on the bolt--i.e., a 15/16" might be a little too small.
if anyone can correct me, please enlighten the group.
1958 MOD. 43
STYLE 58-4439
BODY No. BK2451
TRIM 412
PAINT CG
ACC. E (also BFG)
STYLE 58-4439
BODY No. BK2451
TRIM 412
PAINT CG
ACC. E (also BFG)
Re: Crank pulley nut size ??
1" is correct
Re: Crank pulley nut size ??
good. did you get your engine to turn over?
1958 MOD. 43
STYLE 58-4439
BODY No. BK2451
TRIM 412
PAINT CG
ACC. E (also BFG)
STYLE 58-4439
BODY No. BK2451
TRIM 412
PAINT CG
ACC. E (also BFG)
Re: Crank pulley nut size ??
Nope... it wouldn't turn. We assumed it was the piston rings which would have been stuck and not the bearings.
The plan was to remove the heads while the engine was still in the car, free the pistons and then prepare to start it....
While dismantling the parts to remove the heads, I removed the valley pan and found that the pan itself had corroded right through at the front.
Inside, the cam and followers etc were nice and oily and looking like new but at the area where the pan had corroded, there was a lot of rust particles and other dirt which had fallen onto the cam and followers.
We then decided that it was too much of a risk to try to start the engine as this dirt would have gone into the crank case as well and we couldn't have cleaned the cam area well enough either.
Now I hope to dismantle the engine to pieces, clean it all up and re assemble it when we take the engine out once we start restoring the car. I am hoping that the internal components are in good condition and will not need all new parts.
The plan was to remove the heads while the engine was still in the car, free the pistons and then prepare to start it....
While dismantling the parts to remove the heads, I removed the valley pan and found that the pan itself had corroded right through at the front.
Inside, the cam and followers etc were nice and oily and looking like new but at the area where the pan had corroded, there was a lot of rust particles and other dirt which had fallen onto the cam and followers.
We then decided that it was too much of a risk to try to start the engine as this dirt would have gone into the crank case as well and we couldn't have cleaned the cam area well enough either.
Now I hope to dismantle the engine to pieces, clean it all up and re assemble it when we take the engine out once we start restoring the car. I am hoping that the internal components are in good condition and will not need all new parts.